WEB OF MATERIAL FORMED IN AND BETWEEN OBJECTS

[Anonymous]

I TRIED PRINTING SEVERAL PARTS ON MAKERBOT REPLICATOR Fifth Generation.  The parts have webs of materials between them and in them.  Makerbot blamed it on the software from FUSION 360?  and recommended meshmixer but I do not see how this solves the problem.

thanks

Paul

[I_Forge_KC]

Can you post your STL?

[Anonymous]

Thanks    It gives me a .thing file and a makerbot file.  I have attached the STEP files and will work on the STL

[I_Forge_KC]

The model geometry appears fine. I wonder if there is something wonky going on with Print Studio.

Try exporting out STLs and putting them in MakerWare to see how that goes.

[Anonymous]

it will not allow me to post stl files ....?

thanks

[HughesTooling]

Add it to a ZIP file and attach the ZIP file.

Mark

[Anonymous]

It is interesting that Fusion 360 does not let you export it as STL files.  I usually do STEP or IGES when printing with Sculpteo or Xometry.  Fusion has a direct print to Makerbot.  It converts the file and places it in Makerbot

[I_Forge_KC]

When you go to 3D print, you have the option of using Print Studio or exporting as an STL. Uncheck the box that says "send to print utility" on the make dialog box.

[Anonymous]

HERE ARE THE ZIP FILES .... thanks

[Anonymous]

I do not have the print studio installed.  

[Anonymous]

zip files attached from the makerbot library stl

[jeff_strater]

These STL files look clean:

So, this seems to me to be a printer problem, not a software problem, at least as far as I can tell.  It does look like failures I've gotten with other printers, when the flow rate is not correct, or the nozzle is clogged, or there is a feeder mechanism problem.

Jeff Strater (Fusion development)

[Anonymous]

Thank you. That is what I assumed.

Sent from my iPhone

[TrippyLighting]

Of course it does let you export STL files directly from your model.

Try right-clicking on the component or body  in the browser and select "Save as STL"

[Anonymous]

Thanks. I have a MAC so no right clicks. I will try control function.

Sent from my iPhone

[TrippyLighting]

I guess youre talking about a macbook (pro).

I have an iMac with a mouse and have a "regular" mouse connected to it so can right-click.

My personal opinion based on 25+ years of experience with CAAD and other 3D software is that for serious CAD work you'll do much better with standard 2-button mice with scroll wheel than just tyring to get by with a track pad or even the Apple magic mouse.

The best ivestment in an HID devise I've ever made was the very first 3D mous I bought used on ebay for about $80 many years ago (for use in Solid Works)

Nowadays I use the 3D Connexion Space Navigator (New for $100) with Fusion 360 and it is buttery smooth.

[Anonymous]

Thanks. former dentists like myself - now an innovation consultant - are self taught CAD and learning as we go. I will look into your suggestion.

Sent from my iPhone

[TrippyLighting]

I only ever had 2 weeks of formal training on CATIA 23 years ago and only used it in 2D to design machinery for about 1.5 years.

The other 20+ years on AutoCad, Solid Works, Geomagic Design etc. were also entirely self taught 😉

However, none of these have an awesome froum such as this. Welcome and enjoy the ride!

[Anonymous]

:-). Having fun

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[PhilProcarioJr]

@Anonymous

I guarantee this is a printer error. I have 7 RPM, Makerbot is one of them and they always blame everything but their equipment...anyways you have a few problems here.

Are you printing PLA?

What is your extrusion multiplier set to?

What is your filament diameter?

What is your filament diameter set to?

Are you using presets in your print software and if so which one (ie. Fine, Course...)?

Are you using retraction and if so what is it set to?

What layer is your cooling fan turning on at?

What percentage is it running at?

What is your extrusion feed rate for shells?

Are your shells set to print inner then outer or the other way around?

What is your hotend temperature?

As a side note the stringing effect is usually caused by the hotend temperature being set to high and the fan not cooling the plastic fast enough. It's worse on tower prints which you have here. Your machine needs calibrated badly. An easier fix if your in a hurry is to print parts one by one, but I suggest dialing in your printer.