How to make a ledge

[ianhughes7UFVF]

Hi

I am trying to make a 3d printed frame. The Top Plate is going to be 10mm thick but I want to make it in segements.

This is my first idea:

8 segments, but I needed to make ledges on each side of the individual sections one on the bottom and one on the top of each to be able to join them.

So the sketch I adjusted to look like the last picture, so it will give me a 10mm cut out on one side and a 10mm extension on the top of the other side.

I extrude the section 10mm but carn't seem to make a ledge on the bottom side properly. The cutout needs to be 5mm up.

Hopefully you can understand what I am asking. I have attached the design for you to look at.

Its basically so I can glue each section together with some retention.

Kind Regards

Ian

[lichtzeichenanlage · Accepted solution]

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@ianhughes7UFVFwrote: ...

We know its nothing to do with fusion, but all to do with my printer, but maybe I need to come up with an alternative method of joining sections. ...

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The key slogan is "Designed with 3d printing in mind".  If you change the design of your Ring element, you do not need support (for this element ;-))

[lichtzeichenanlage · Accepted solution]

Just posted a version like this. I'm just a bit slow 😉

BTW: Nothing has to be printed upside down. Export one element as STL, print 8 of them, and then assemble long side up, long side down, ... 😉

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@ianhughes7UFVFwrote:

Hi

One way to remove the ledge issue is probably have both ledges on one plain rather than one up and one down. It would mean that every second quater would need to be printed upside down.

I hope you know what I mean.

Like this:

This would allow the ledges to print correctly on the top and sit properly on the print bed.

Kind Regards

Ian

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[ianhughes7UFVF · Accepted solution]

Hi

Now a good opportunity to design the part from scratch again, although I don't think the revolve option will work with this situation as we are inverting one part.

Unless I create one part, invert a duplicate and revolve both parts.

Kind Regards

Ian

[lichtzeichenanlage]

Nothing will be inverted. Just rotated by 180 degrees. You still have only one element (unless you start to add mount points). Screencast is uploading.

[lichtzeichenanlage · Accepted solution]

And here is the screencast:

[chrisplyler]

DANGIT!

I made almost the exact same screencast! Except I used a single circular pattern at the end, selecting both of the two jointed components and setting it to 4 instances.

I was twelve minutes behind you, you cursed German robot from hell!

[lichtzeichenanlage]

@chrisplyler: 

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[chrisplyler]

@ianhughes7UFVF  Of course you can still use Revolve.

[chrisplyler]

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[ianhughes7UFVF]

Hi

You chaps are going way fast for me. I was starting from scratch trying to follow one of the screencasts. I made the new quater section and then revolved it 4 times and then copied and rotated one part and jointed it and then revolved that four times. Then I noticed the last screen cast that uses the symetrical command. I saw it there but forgot how to use it as that would probably have simplified the part.

I have attached my attempt. I forgot how to constrain some of the lines. I am also wondering if I should use some other form of location means instead of or as well as a bolt hole, like a square or round or hexagon groove in one side and the negative in the other.

Kind Regards

Ian

[lichtzeichenanlage]

@chrisplyler

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@chrisplylerwrote:

@lichtzeichenanlage

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[chrisplyler]

@lichtzeichenanlage

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[lichtzeichenanlage · Accepted solution]

Registration marks are always a good thing. You might even want to have some press fittings. You have to test print but I'm doing int with my models, too.

I might have an error in the design, but I have tobe AFK for some time. 

[lichtzeichenanlage · Accepted solution]

So - Stupid Wilko (me) ... I fixed the error now.

[ianhughes7UFVF]

Hi

I definitely think the concept of the press fit is a good idea, although I think the v5 with a ledge is a good idea to stop the pieces moving past each other.

I am also wondering whether the tab and slot or grooves would help to be longer so they cover a larger area to provide more bonding?

I also think I should swap to abs. What is the main printing variation between pla and abs. I print pla at around 200 degrees and the print bed at 50 degrees, with masking tape on the print bed. Does abs need to have a glass base and different temperature usage?

Kind Regards

Ian

[lichtzeichenanlage · Accepted solution]

The v5 model is not working. Don't go for it. It's s**t.

I haven't printed ABS because of the smell. My weapon of choice is ASA as a replacement for ABS, because it smells much less and works fine with my PEI sheet. It also warps less. Both materials are printed best in an enclosure and enclosures don't have to be fancy as you can see. I started with a cardboard box and just planing a more advanced enclosure because I don't trust the box for long prints (what I haven't done yet with ASA).

I like PETG, too but it might not be easy to paint. 

Do you know Thomas Sanladerer? He's doing a lot 3d printing stuff and has tested materials a lot. If it comes to ABS you might want to check this video as an overview or this containing a material test.

What printer are you using?

[ianhughes7UFVF]

Hi

My printer is an Anet A8, which has a printbed of 220 x 220. Its off ebay but has been a really good printer for what I want to do at the moment.

I will have to check out the video and chap you referred to. I think I had heard ABS has a lot of warpage issues. I think the main advantage is using acetone to join pieces.

Just for your interest, this is a frame I designed with fusion, but this is with my bad method of inserting dxfs, extruding and then then moving parts together.

The day I can do this native to fusion without inserting files, will be a very happy day for me. You can see the R2 design created so far.

Kind Regards

Ian

[ianhughes7UFVF]

Hi

Would it still be worth placing a hole in for a bolt, or do you reckon that the fit and glue would be strong enough to hold it in place.

Kind Regards

Ian

[chrisplyler · Accepted solution]

Gluing versus bolting...

That's not a Fusion question. That's an engineering questions.

Suppose you dropped the R2 from 6' and it landed on the worst case part. Calculate the reaction forces at the joints in question. Look up all the properties of the glue you intend to use on the part material you've chosen. Figure out the holding power of your joint both in sheer and tension. Will the glue hold?

Same thing with your chosen mechanical fastener.

Which choice is better? I think you'll need a whole different forum to teach you about figuring that out. But I will say that many glues, if selected properly and applied properly to surfaces that are prepared properly, are much stronger than the base materials that they join.

I've got a car. Its chassis is made almost entirely from Aluminum extrusions. The various extrusions are glued together. In pretty every single failure test, the extrusions failed before the the glued joints. Of course it was engineered properly. If you go using Elmer's School glue on glossy smooth plastic, just for example, all bets are off.

[TheCADWhisperer]

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@chrisplylerwrote:

I don't know whether discussions of designing for manufacturing belong in a forum dedicated to the use of the design software, but I love them anyway. ..

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Good thing,  'cause there is a whole lot of Design for (Additive) Manufacturing going on in this thread.