No apologies needed. When I began my apprenticeship under a German master many years ago, he would say such helpful and encouraging things as "Bob, your ff-holes are horrible!" So I am used to blunt criticism. I always know where I stand, and if a compliment should ever sneak into the discourse, I know I earned it.
Your screencast was wonderful. It gave me the new perspective I needed, although there are still a few(?) questions. But I thought first I should answer the questions you asked, especially since we are getting a blizzard in a few hours and I expect to lose power at some point!
1) In the older drawing you worked on there was a departure from the center line. That was there to allow extra material on an aluminum template to drill two holes on the center line for locating pins. The template is used to draw a half-outline on plywood sheet stock, then flipped over and pinned again so that the full outline drawing is symmetrical. Very old-school, but time-tested if you are careful in drilling the locating holes. It occurred to me that sketching in Fusion and cutting the mould on a CNC machine allows me to eliminate the template, so I deleted that little bump-out from subsequent drawings.
2) You asked if the straight lines at the bottom and top of the inner profile were needed. The answer is a definite yes . . . and no. The approach I used was done with one eye looking ahead at subsequent steps on the CNC machine. The flat spots are needed on the underside for gluing platforms for the instrument's six structural blocks, but on the outside the convex arch dips below the origin plane and then rises again to the purfling groove. My idea was that the flat "shelf" would be partly corrected when routing the purfling groove, and the rest would be done by hand when cutting the purfling down to the contour. I had considered making an offset copy of the drawing after it was lofted, and then working on the outside face separately from the inside face. My two problems are a) that I'm not sure how to connect the two drawings to give a consistent edge height of 8 mm; and b) that the reversing curve goes below the plane of the sketch and then comes back up again at the outside edge. The lowest part of the convex curve has to be at a consistent dimension all around, and I didn't know how to do that, either, or how to tell the CAM program to cut it.
3) The arcs on the basic "template" drawing are made up of different tangent curves, and each arc has three of them until it reverses or goes past the center line. When doing the profile for lofting, these are the lines that get offset inward (and modified at the corner points). A long spline should work, but I find constraining splines to be difficult. I'd really like to know how to do splines accurately over the offset arcs and then delete the arcs afterward. I can tell from your lofts that you do the entire arc all at once. Very cool.
I think of the many things I took away from your screencast, doing half-sketches and mirroring 3D objects instead made the most impact. There's a step in my process where I have to cut counterforms to construct the rib outline. Since there are almost two dozen of them, and I was sketching each one (or sketching half and then mirroring the other half), the clutter on my drawing was, well, horrible. This should make things a lot easier.