Revit Fascia Depth

Revit Fascia Depth

mikeX6WME
Participant Participant
2,204 Views
9 Replies
Message 1 of 10

Revit Fascia Depth

mikeX6WME
Participant
Participant

Hi All, 

 

I've been playing around with different ways to achieve a proper roof fascia depth on a gable roof. On any sloped side you're able to change the fascia depth (i.e. 5-1/2") so that it is consistent with a typical roof truss overhang and sub-fascia depth while maintaining a proper roof truss depth so the heel height is correct. 

 

The issue with this is on a gable roof you're not able to change the fascia width on the end walls and thereby requiring an overly large fascia to hide the roof profile. 

 

The only workaround I have been able to use is to have 2 roofs and join them. Roof A haS a 0" overhang and Roof B will be for the overhang only and have a roof thickness consistent with the fascia depth. Is there an easier way to do this? Can I create a fascia profile that has a void? In my example its obviously very easy to do it that way but when you get into more complex roof systems with both hip and gable ends it would be nice to have a more simple fix. 

0 Likes
2,205 Views
9 Replies
Replies (9)
Message 2 of 10

ToanDN
Consultant
Consultant

Using two roofs isn't a bad idea. You can just copy paste align the roof, use Vertical opening to cut, and change type.

 

If you want to cut with void than create in sweep void sweep, pick lower edges of roof as path, then cut geometry.

Message 3 of 10

yes_and_no
Collaborator
Collaborator

I try to learn yr problem. So changing fascia profile to a deeper one won't work ? For a heavy roof frame like 2x10 rafters then 1x12 fascia would do.

0 Likes
Message 4 of 10

mikeX6WME
Participant
Participant

I could change to a deeper fascia yes, but with our typical truss design and getting a proper heel height modelled, the roof thickness is around 1'-7" (480mm) which is a very large fascia depth and wouldn't match the sloped sides.  

 

You can see in the picture I've posted that the typical overhang on a gable end is ladder framed to extend out so the thickness in this portion is not the same thickness as the main roof. 

0 Likes
Message 5 of 10

barthbradley
Consultant
Consultant

Get rid of the blue roof.  It's wrong.  If you want a flat soffit under the eaves, use the soffit tool.  What's the condition on the rake side? How does the soffit make the transition at the corner return? 

 

Soffit.png 

 

..this is what I was asking about. Examples of soffit conditions at rake:  

Types of Soffits.png

 

...just saw your truss detail. One more pix for you:

 

Truss521.png

 

Truss521-1.png

0 Likes
Message 6 of 10

mikeX6WME
Participant
Participant

The blue roof is not wrong....and I don't have any issues with the soffit. The soffit condition I feel is irrelevant in this. That being said it would be a join condition similar to the third option, flat soffit at eave and sloped soffit at rake. I understand in order to make a soffit to use the soffit tool and it can be either sloped on the underside or it can be flat. My question is regarding the fascia at the gable end. The roof thickness is built with trusses, not rafters. When it gets built as a truss it is considerably wider than a typical 2x10 rafter so the gable end becomes a problem. 

 

I've attached a section thru the roof and wall showing a 2' overhang and a 5-1/2" fascia depth. But you'll see in the second picture that because the gable end is not sloped the fascia depth does not reduce and therefore is the full thickness of the roof in question. For reference the fascia shown is a 1x12 fascia. When building this building in actuality, the fascia will not be 16" wide in order to cover the the gable end, but rather will be the same width all the way around because the gable end overhang will be ladder framed out. The only way I can think of doing it is to make it as 2 roof's - one thick and one thinner. The other suggestion of creating a void sweep and cutting the roof will also work. 

 

The gist of my question is - is there a parameter or a way to make the roof work in one step. Or rather have a fascia profile made to have a void condition and cut the geometry? I feel there is not and thats ok, but was looking to see if anybody else has found a more simple solution to this.

0 Likes
Message 7 of 10

barthbradley
Consultant
Consultant

@mikeX6WME wrote:

The blue roof is not wrong....

 

 

So, you're really convinced that this:

 

Ops Truss 521-2.png

 

 

is this:

 

Ops Truss 521.png

 

 

Whatever.  I guess I'm done here.  

 

 

 

 

0 Likes
Message 8 of 10

barthbradley
Consultant
Consultant

Ops Truss 521.png  

 

Truss521-6.png

 

 

That help?  

 

0 Likes
Message 9 of 10

barthbradley
Consultant
Consultant

Happy Monday. How’s it growing?  Got a suggestion for you - one that might make your architectural designing a whole lot easier. 

 

Nix the Vaulted Parallel Chord Truss and just use one roof at design height/overhang and then attach your exterior walls to it.  Let the Structural Engineer design the Trusses.  If the Structural Engineer decides that the trusses need to be more robust, then modify the architectural model to reflect this.  Making these revisions shouldn’t be too much of a hassle if the model elements are properly constrained so they can "flex". Obviously, such a build-up would impact building height – as well as budget. If those exceed the maximum allowed, then you would need to re-think your design with respect to the interior volume spaces. 

 

With regards to sloping soffits at the Gable side: you can model them with Roofs and Walls. Keep in mind that the Attach Top/Base tool can attach the BASE, as well as the TOP.  Also, the Attach Top/Base target can be a Ref. Plane.  Doesn’t have to be a System Family, such as a Roof or Floor. 

 

Maybe these pix will help: 

 

Perspective Soffit.png

Perspective Soffit 2.png

 

 

 

 

0 Likes
Message 10 of 10

KhaledAlSayyed
Explorer
Explorer

What I think you can do is to create a new fascia profile set for the overhang depth (example: 2'-0" x 5 1/2")

Then have your gable end drawn to the interior face of the wall.

After that create your gable end fascia (the one you created).

Then change the original roof rafter cut to be plumb cut and set your fascia depth (for example 5 1/2"), then create an actual fascia of the same depth around the whole roof and the 2'-0" created gable end fascia as well (fascia can be based on another fascia).

Lastly, join the 2'-0" fascia created with the original roof and paint the top surface with the same roof material.

 

I hope this works easier for you than creating a whole new roof.

0 Likes