Lost with creating solids

[Anonymous]

Hi!

First time on Forum after many frustrating days trying to make this job! I googled and thought many routes through but no luck.

I'm pretty new on Inventor. But I could make some pretty simple 3D models. Now I have this problem how to create a solids with the loft inside. Past time I could create it but how can I not remember how!?

So in attachments are situations. paksumpipaaty ending file is the new that leaves hollow between loft solid and outer surface. It should be full solid. So the other file is older, like few month old I could create right.

The older file is not right for the application it goes, in newer model (paksumpipaaty ending file) I did make wider diameter and most important made the wall thickness to 1 mm.  But now I can not make it into full solid, it stays like surface.

For example I tried this: I extrude a new solid on the loft. Then I would need to subtract the loft solid from it. I tried to use Trim tool. No luck. But I have a thin memory like I did use a tool like that... I have tried to delete faces from solids but that too cannot help.

Hope you can understand this funny English.

[JDMather]

Workplane 1 and 2 not needed.

Revolution 1 and 2 not needed and do not make logical sense.

Coil 1 is not manufacturable as modeled.

Do not use Delete Face without extensive experience.

Updated model to follow in a few minutes.

But given the issues in the second model and the fact that you couldn't simply edit the first model to get second model - I have doubts about your design intent for the Loft.

[JDMather]

See attached file.

[Anonymous]

Thanks a lot about the answer and solution. Maybe I should've explained the situation more deeply. So the model is for machining or 3D-printing and is connection part of air compressor intake hose. Thread (coil you mean?) is standard M16 x 1,5 but I took the diameter from original part with exactly same thread but 15,4 mm diameter.

I'd be interested to know which tools you used and how to edit the part to tranform it into right shape? To remember and take notes for future. This work is not any profession related but is going to real application, my compressor!

EDIT 1:
Hi really soon again, so I got through with my own luck, because I slept 11 hours. Maybe it helped but solved the problem should be. See attachment, I just changed the wide end diameter and then drew few sketches to extrude a new solid full lenght shell over the piece. Then just combined all the solids.

[JDMather]

All of the information is in the history.

I could create a simplified example, but it is important in learning Inventor to learn how to read the history tree.

Find the red End of Part marker.

Drag it up to just below the first feature.

Right click on Sketch1 and select Edit Sketch.

Start a new part file and reproduce Sketch1.

Pull down the red End of Part marker and step-by-step recreate each sketch and feature.

[kelly.young · Accepted solution]

Welcome to the Inventor Forum @Anonymous!

Getting started with Inventor can be daunting at first, but stick with it and you can definitely use it to make the 3d printing parts you desire. The first thing I would recommend is instead of using the Extrusion and Loft commands, use the Revolve command. There are many ways to draw the same thing, just takes a bit of planning on how to make it the easiest. You are on the right track with the Coil command, and got the tooth shape correct, although I'm interested to know what .160083 * Pitch for the tooth is about? See example thread image. In my experience it helps to use simplified numbers when at all possible. I manufactured aerospace contacts using screw machines (no affiliation just my past use as an example) for 3 years with up to .0001 precision with a tolerance of ±.0005 so going to 6 decimals in a pitch equation is a bit unnecessary, just causes headaches later in fitment. Your 3d printer probably has a tolerance, make sure you are designing within that otherwise you are just doing too much. Attached is an easier way using fewer commands based off of one sketch. There are many ways to finish a thread, but for simplicity this end would probably work for a 3d printer. Keep at it and let us know how it goes. Feel free to post your 3d printing success, we would all be interested to see your progression.

[Anonymous]

Wow, nice to see this is so active forum! So back in business, I didn't have to draw the thread, I used awesome coolOrange thread modeler. If there is some little anomaly that (?) is not going to block fitting I think it is not a problem. I'm not sure what you meant with .160083, is it the start of thread? I noticed, that Orange is a little tricky with thread starting. Ready parts might need some filing in the garage, not a problem.

E: I examined your attachment. I noticed the end of thread, against the thicker part of the intake part. Did you mean that spot? Thread have to "go into" part because the part must touch the compressor head. Hope you understand!

[JDMather · Accepted solution]

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@Anonymous wrote:

...Thread have to "go into" part because the part must touch the compressor head. Hope you understand!

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Do you have a picture of the actual part and the compressor head at this threaded hole?

Because the cutting tool cannot go right up to the clamping face, and certainly not "go into" the clamping face - there is typically an undercut ring at the clamping face or a slight counterbore or countersink in the threaded hole that will allow the clamping face to seal tightly even though the thread is not full length of cylinder.

In this case an undercut on the cylinder might weaken it too much, so I am betting the clearance is in the threaded hole of the compressor head. 

Now since you indicate 3D printing - you can model geometry that cannot be manufactured with standard processes, but I am guessing you will still need to chase the thread with a die after printing and the thread die is not going to cut right up to the shoulder.

[kelly.young]

As I had it modeled instead of just extruding the end, I should have used the Coil Taper technique JD suggested, that's what cutting corners looks like, don't fall into that practice. 

I'm glad you shared that coolOrange add-on, that would help for model rendering on quick representations. That being said if you are going to be 3d printing or machining getting the model drawn through best practice will be critically valuable in the future. In the real world machining out of metal this way would be hard and require special tooling, you could 3d print as @JDMather noted. Be careful making parts that will be hard to make in the final desired medium of manufacturing. Getting into metal turning and cnc are what 3d printing prototypes turn into so be mindful. Once you get there you'll be learning about how to identify proper metal shavings! Also want you to be sure to verify the thread of the existing piece and the mate necessary. If you are using compressed air, plastic or metal fasteners you are exploring dangerous territory - precise modeling and engineering should be taken account for. Just want you to keep your eyebrows.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for replies. Of course you need to understand all safety concerns. The part is for intake so there is not compressed air and underpressure will be only few tenths.

See pictures below. There are the original part and pics that show how all goes together. The plastic part (which is "air filter") is the original part. Thread has been done into body. So it does not end before the body. Of course in many works you must make threads to end before parts' body but at this time it is not needed.

Before I started this project I had to know what thread was used in the original part. It is one hundred percent sure that it is M16 x 1,5. I think they have done it thinner (15,4 mm) because of clearances and temperature related deformation. It is just M16 but like grinded lower. That is okay, we can use same diameter.

Please let me know if I've understood anything wrong. Especially deeply technical English in progress. 🙂