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wood corners chipping

prettygoodnotbad
Advocate

wood corners chipping

prettygoodnotbad
Advocate
Advocate

I'm still in the learning process with my Shapeoko 3 but have so far been fairly successful minus a few small hickups along the way. One thing that is starting to bug me is that not matter what I try the corners of my solid wood parts always chip away as the tool cuts around them. I'm not sure exactly what I need to adjust to try and solve this issue, is it a depth per pass and feed rate problem, or is it a setting like "outer corner mode" ... or maybe I need I higher quality cutting tool (I'm currently using the ones sold by carbide 3d). 

 

Anyway thoughts on the matter would be helpful! 

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Marco.Takx
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Mentor

Hi @prettygoodnotbad,

 

I haven’t seen the tool or situation. 

How Manu flutes has your tool and what is the pitch of the tool. 

 

Large pitch can put some pulling on the material instead of lower pitch tools. 

 

Also the reduce feeds can help.

 

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Marco Takx
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jodom4
Community Manager
Community Manager

Hey prettygoodnotbad,

Try switching between Climb and Conventional milling. This changes the direction of the path in relation to the rotation of the end mill.

 

 

In the Conventional cutting example (left) you can see how the end mill could chip the wood as it's cutting against the gran. The Climb example is cutting with the grain. It will depend on the grain orientation of your wood, but you can run tool paths that only cut corners and switch the direction accordingly. It'll take some experimentation, but this will probably solve your problem.


Jonathan Odom
Community Manager + Content Creator
Oregon, USA

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prettygoodnotbad
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Advocate

@jodom4 Ok thanks for the advice I was experimenting a bit with that at the beginning and had decided early on that conventional milling was a better option, but probably for no good reason, I will try switching back to climb milling.

 

@Marco.Takx  the tool I am using is this one: https://shop.carbide3d.com/collections/cutters/products/201-25-end-mill-cutter-qty-2?variant=1256409...

 

It is 3 flute 0.25in flat end mill. I don't know what pitch refers to though, and it isn't indicated on the site.

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Marco.Takx
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Hi @prettygoodnotbad ,

 

That’s what I thought. 

This tool has a big angle in his pitch. 

 

A smaller pitch and/or more flutes will do the job I think. 

 

If my post answers your question Please use  Mark Solutions!.Accept as Solution & Give Kudos!Kudos This helps everyone find answers more quickly!

Met vriendelijke groet | Kind regards | Mit freundlichem Gruß

Marco Takx
CAM Programmer & CAM Consultant



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daniel_lyall
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Mentor

That is the correct type of cutter for wood, Adding more flutes will not help at all its a common problem in wood its called tear out cutting against the grain will cause tear out in certain types of wood.

This is a good example of a tool used to produces clean edges in wood and composites.

 

This one is made to stop tear out and chipping in a few different types of material at the top and bottom of the material being cut. 

 


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Daniel Lyall
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prettygoodnotbad
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@daniel_lyall Interesting, I could give one of those a shot, otherwise what are my options? I'm often doing 2d contour cuts in hard wood, is there a technique to approach the corners I should be aware of? 

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daniel_lyall
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Doing a ramp in quite often works.

Having extra material on the bit of wood being cut so you cut between the bits of wood this give something for the wood to push against when you are cutting.

 

If it is really bad you use a sketch so you can take the corners of cutting with the grain.

 

90% of this is user experience it is easy to say what the problem is but how to fix it is hard it is down to the bit of wood. sometimes I have had to chuck back in the stack a bit of wood because it has started to move all by itself some stuff has taken years to stop moving.

There is a lot to it unless you get stabilized wood that is very expensive and very easy to work with.


Win10 pro | 16 GB ram | 4 GB graphics Quadro K2200 | Intel(R) 8Xeon(R) CPU E5-1620 v3 @ 3.50GHz 3.50 GHz

Daniel Lyall
The Big Boss
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My Websight, Daniels Wheelchair Customisations.
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prettygoodnotbad
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Advocate

so what has been successful so far is @Marco.Takx's suggestion to reduce feeds around corners (option in the feed optimization menu). I also used a fresh cutting tool, the same carbide3d one I was using but new, and I think that made a difference, so my endmill was probably also worn out. I'm still interested in exploring other options though. I am intrigued by what @daniel_lyall said about ramping in, I'm not sure what this refers to.

 

I saw this option under the linking tab, but I fail to see how it would help, Screen Shot 2019-01-31 at 9.14.00 AM.png

maybe I'm not looking at the right thing.

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daniel_lyall
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Mentor

That is it, what you do is don't set a depth in the passes tab, what you do is set the Maximum ramp stepdown to your max depth of cut you want the ramping angel set between 2 to 4 degress is fine and turn leads & transitions off by unticking all the tick box's.

 

Doing this causes a constant engagement between the tool and wood as the tool is ramping into the material from the top to bottom, the hight only changes if you have tabs and if you do you set them to triangular, it is better of the cutter, machine and material if you do.

 

Yes, a nice sharp tool and slowing down around corners will work better, than not.

The only other thing is gluing some scrap wood on the material with the grain in the correct direction to act as a backer.

 

It is just the grain direction doing it.

With a manual router, you have to cut it in the correct direction otherwise it will rip the corners off and the bit of material out of your hand.


Win10 pro | 16 GB ram | 4 GB graphics Quadro K2200 | Intel(R) 8Xeon(R) CPU E5-1620 v3 @ 3.50GHz 3.50 GHz

Daniel Lyall
The Big Boss
Mach3 User
My Websight, Daniels Wheelchair Customisations.
Facebook | Twitter | LinkedIn

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