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Tenon joint - Horizontally

8 REPLIES 8
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Message 1 of 9
jonmcdermott
205 Views, 8 Replies

Tenon joint - Horizontally

Excuse my ignorance but i am very new to any CNC/CAM processes. I am trying to mill a Mortice and Tenon joint in Wood, the joint has a 'Fillet' on the corners ( 0.20 inch radius) - see below screenshot.

I have created the mortice with a simple pocket but am having trouble with the Tenon. I do not have clearance to mount the workpiece vertically so require a horizontal solution. Having played around with the software and simulations, i think the best solution will be to mill one side then flip and run the job again. Could someone suggest the best solution for actually milling this ? 

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

jonmcdermott_0-1693310313714.png

jonmcdermott_1-1693310402922.png

 

8 REPLIES 8
Message 2 of 9
seth.madore
in reply to: jonmcdermott

Well, as you've designed it, you're going to have to make some accommodations, I'm thinking. Since endmills and router bits are cylindrical in nature, you're going to end up with radii at some point or another. Are you planning on taking a wood chisel to the remnants to finish off with square corners?

 

Do you have enough travel on your machine to allow you to hang the part off the edge of the table?


Seth Madore
Customer Advocacy Manager - Manufacturing
Message 3 of 9
jonmcdermott
in reply to: jonmcdermott

Hi, thanks for the assist.

 

The workpiece will lie lengthways from left to right on the bed. The image i provided is looking at the left hand face. The way i had seen it it my head was, cutitng in from left to right  which should clear all but a small radius up the vertical edges (presumably the ones you envisage being chiseled ?) and a few steps up the radius. I had thought another finishing pass ( or a chisel as suggested ) would remove these.

I could remove a section of the table and spoilboard to allow me clearance for a vertival cut but clamping may cause an issue. The machine is 1500 x 1500 so reasonably heavy but moveable ( i suffered a stroke a few years back and do not have the strength i used to). This project will be reasonably small but this may not provide a solution for anything larger. The bed sit around 36-40 inches from the floor.

Any ideas ?

 

Message 4 of 9
Joshua.Aigen
in reply to: jonmcdermott

Hi @jonmcdermott, Looks to me like the way you're going about it is reasonable considering the limitations you have. With flip milling wood the hardest part is aligning everything after the first operation. If you have scrap stock I encourage you to do many experiments and you will get it. As advice for alignment I've used pins milled into the spoilboard and I've also secured stock to the spoilboard and milled a jig directly on the machine, both of these methods ensure the part has been aligned using the machines axis rather than your eye. I'm sure there are some Youtube videos out there I would also study what others have done put in "Flip milling wood". Good luck!


Joshua Aigen
Workshop Supervisor
Message 5 of 9
jonmcdermott
in reply to: jonmcdermott

Hi,  Can you advise on whether this will will need 2 passes and if so what is the best method to use for each pass ? 

Would this be simpler to remove the Fillet's and put them in on a separate finishing pass. If so, what would be the recommended method to use for the finishing pass?

 

Message 6 of 9
Joshua.Aigen
in reply to: jonmcdermott

I don't think you need 2 passes I would try to get everything and then clean up the fillets with a chisel, but that's me. If that is not an option I would look into pocket clearing, with stock to leave on for the first rough pass and maybe a second operation for clean up. I do think there are some finishing options within the pocket clearing tool path as well. One thing I would consider is that the tenon will be inside the mortice no one will see it, you really just need to achieve a nice shoulder to interface with the exposed edge. This is where I would consider the wood you are using, and use multiple depths, and how you are leading in and leading out of the cut (avoiding chip out).


Joshua Aigen
Workshop Supervisor
Message 7 of 9

I agree you will have to clean the corner radii out with a chisel. If I am seeing it correctly, you're going to be chiseling two corners out on the mortise side anyway. 

Only other option is to design both pieces with undercuts in the corners to accommodate one another, but that would likely reduce the strength of the joint.

Message 8 of 9
jonmcdermott
in reply to: jonmcdermott

thanks to everyone for all the help.

I will keep this in mind for future projects, For the monent, i have removed a 10"x 6" section the bench surface so i can do the tenon as a vertical piece, which seems to work well. It wont cure any issues with anything longer than the bench height but i can get this project out of the way for now.

many thanks

Message 9 of 9

Dont forget about the option of just CNCing a router template that you then can add to any peice! Either use a bearing bit (1:1), or if you can go larger a template that actually mates with your router base.
Please click "Accept Solution" if what I wrote solved your issue!

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