You are doing for me what i should actually do. (check the details as you did)
I changed the PCD to 31.831 mm and now the rack pitch is exactly 10.00 mm. All makes sense now. Thank you for that.
Actually i was thinking also that maybe they dont provide accurate drawings to protect the design. Good to know that its actually like that.
Just one question: Do you believe the Nexen Rack has actually the same form as what i get from your drawing where i change the parameters, but they just changed the drawing? As you noticed, the cutout for the roller in the Nexen rack has more space and generally has a different form.
I havent used your fusiuon 360 app yet, because changing the parameters of your drawing is so quick and easy, but i will for sure test it out.
Of course i want to share what i build and let especially you know if its working, but i didnt order the harmonic drive yet, so i cannot machine the bearing seats in the pinion very accurate. I have a couple of options. Some used and some new harmonic drives. For the new ones i would need to wait at least a couple of days and the used one i could have in 2 days if i order today, but i am just thinking if it makes sense to buy a used harmonic drive for the 4th axis to do very precise work. If its used, it might be not anymore in best condition and the price is about the same as for a new china harmonic drive. (with good reputation)
But, i have some news or at least i can show i take that small project seriously :D:
I did some tests yesterday. I found some bearing roller shafts in 4mm size and i had exactly 9 rollers, so i thought i will machine a pinion and just put the rollers between the pinion plates without any bearings, just for fun, and also i machined a rack for the Pinion.
Just some additional information: I didnt have much time yesterday, so i just mounted the 6mm aluminium sheet plate on my router table with 2-sided tape. It holds well when the surface is big, but not in case of 30mm parts like the pinion, so the quality of the outside surface of the pinion is bad. But, also i first used a broken collet (i didnt know its broken) from which i had 0.11 mm runout on the 3mm cutter i used. The i found another but rusty 4mm collet, cleaned it well and got 0.005 runout (i was very shocked that the rusty collet that i could clean only on the outside gave me such good runout). With the perfect runout i than machined the rack, but also the rack was cutted from the same sheet that was mounted with the 2 sided tape and even the surface is very good, its not as i know it. My router is pretty stiff for a 4x8 size router and makes almost a polished finish when the material is well fixed.
The 4mm holes i did with "bore-milling", unfortunately with the3mm end mill with 0.11mm runout, but the hole are pretty good for the roller, but they are not all in perfect distance to each other. Error of
The PCD of the pinion i machined is originally 24.00 mm.
Here the measurements from one roller to the opposite roller:
1. 27.97 mm
2. 27.96 mm
3. 27.94 mm
4. 27.93 mm
So, about 0.05 mm error. I think its not bad with a 0.11 run out and bore milling of every roller and all by cnc with 2-sided tape fixture.
The Rack seams to be almost perfect. When i lie in a 4mm end mill shaft into the teeth-cutout, you cannot move it. It feels really good.
Now when i move the Pinion over the rack, you cannot feel any backlash, but keep in mind the rollers dont roll, because there are no bearings. It also doesnt feel smoth, but no wonder without bearings and also the 0,05 mm error shouldnt be there.
After this test i am pretty sure i can build that system and it will work well, i just need a harmonic drive and do it as i previously described:
1. Mount pinion stock material on harmonic drive. (like on a vertical lathe)
2. Pre-drill 1 hole
3. rotate stock by 54.802 deg. (for PCD = 24 mm)
4. Pre-drill next hole
5. when all holes a pre-drilled then finish all holes with a reamber or boring head
Pinion is done
When it comes to the Rack i have a couple of options.
1. Option: I can do it as i did yesterday - just use CNC for machining the rack (lowest accuray i would say)
2. Option: I create a contuor for one cutout (for one roller) and after one cut, i will move the stock rack material exactly by the specific distance and then cut the next cut out. (in this case i have to build a fixure and the stock material has to have one flat surface that i can butt against the fixture - i hope you understand what i mean)
3. Pre-cutting the rack with CNC, then use a shaped/dressed grinding wheel and do it same like for Option 2. (this should be the most advanced and accurate/precise option, but that would be a option in case i would like to start a small business with that roller rack&pinion system and if the racks has to be hardened.)
Now here some pictures:






