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I would like to start experimenting roughing with 3d adaptive clearing. I'm very interested in its ability to take full depth cuts using nearly the entire cutter length. I'm wondering what type of bit I should be using, straight plunge or spiral? Upcut or downcut?
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That's very much material and machine dependent, so can you offer up any more context?

Seth Madore
Customer Advocacy Manager - Manufacturing
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Absolutely, it will be hardwood, we usually work with walnut, oak, ash, and maple. The machine is a Maverick by Legacy Woodworking: https://lwmcnc.com/cnc-mills/maverick-4-x8/
I currently only have a Carbide3d Shapeoko XXL machine, but am receiving the Maverick tomorrow, and need to prepare for an upcoming production run which will involve some large 3d machining in walnut. I'm looking at large cutters, I might need 2.5" to 3" cutter lengths, I have no experience yet with such large bits as the Shapeoko is only a small machine that can only accommodate 1/4" shank bits.
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I'm going to defer to the advice of @daniel_lyall on this one, he's the resident woodworker.

Seth Madore
Customer Advocacy Manager - Manufacturing
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The spindle on that machine is 3hp so it will not handle full depth with a big step over small step over should doable dependent on toolpath used, basically, you need to do some test cutting before going into a production run to find what is a good step over.
There will be a bit of defection at that sort of length of cut you will need to do some spring passes or do a couple of contours at full depth to remove any deflection from the part.
The tools to use quilty is the key do not buy cheap cutters, the common places for woodworkers is to get the tools from https://www.toolstoday.com/ or direct from Amana tools there is also http://www.harveytool.com/
https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/.
Have a read of this for upcut or downcut cutters http://blog.carbideprocessors.com/whiteside-machine/up-cut-router-bits-vs-down-cut-router-bits/
Any other questions yell out.
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Daniel Lyall
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@daniel_lyall thanks for the insight, from my understanding with adaptive clearing the whole point is to use the full cutter length but only use about 30% stepover / optimal load, at least thats what I came to understand through the autodesk lessons here: https://f360ap.autodesk.com/courses/fundamentals-of-milling/lessons/lesson-3-roughing
I guess you are saying that my machine may not be able to handle the proposed optimal load and doc?
My question though, to be more specific, is when using 3d adaptive clearing as a roughing strategy, specifically using a full DOC and small stepover as suggested in the video, are there cutters that are best for this type of machining? Should I be using spiral or straight plunge one or two or three flutes? My instinct is a two flute spiral upcut, this is what I use for most scenarios. I was wondering if there would be something more optimal for this sort of roughing.
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While they can be applied to wood I think the strategies were developed more for metal working where solid carbide is more common and not as deflection prone compared to a steel bit or one with carbide brazed edges.
Also consider the length to diameter ratio. You said you could only hold up to a .25 diameter bit for 3" long (12:1) where in metal working you might have that same 3" long cutter but have a .75" or 1" (3:1) shank to hold on to.
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@johnswetz1982 I meant my current machine can only hold up to 1/4", we are setting up a new much larger machine today, which can take larger shanks. I am hoping to find people with experience doing that sort of adaptive clearing in wood, is this a strategy used in solid wood? and what type of cutter should I be looking at? I might have to redesign my part to be machinable with shorter bits I will concede. That said I'm really just asking for a starting point, what cutter should I begin testing 3d adaptive clearing as explained in the Fusion lesson, if at all possible to begin with.
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@johnswetz1982 You can cut anything you want with a router AKA a Bridge mill with a router spindle.
I do a 9mm stepdown(75% or thereabout) and 75% width of cut with 1/2 2 flute router bits and 2 flute endmills (same Hp as what you are getting) 1/4in the same 75% 75%, this works for the big machine I use and look after for roughing and roughing pockets out.
So you can do a full-depth of cut (the long cutters 2 inches or more do at least 2 to 5 step-downs to stop there being the possibility of a large deflection) do a small step over say 10 - 20% width of cut( test this to see if you can do a bigger step over and step downs). If it is purely for roughing and/or cutting right through the material you want upcut so it spits the chips out fast and leaves a clean bottom edge then you can come back at the end and do a contour with a down cut, you just make sure it is a tinny amount that is left for the cleanup passes on the sides of the material.
You can use all the tool paths in fusion for your router, and you will full in love with adaptive once you know the limit of the machine.
Basically you need to spend a few days doing test cuts to learn the machine and keep a fire extinguisher handy (just make sure you keep one close to the machine at all times) also use the material you are planning to cut.
Once you get to know the machine this stuff gets simple.
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Daniel Lyall
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@daniel_lyall great thanks for all that, looking forward to starting some tests. Last thing, do you have an opinion on straight plunge bits, are they especially good for anything, or better to stick with the spiral?
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I do not use them, the biggest risk with a router is setting the material on fire what takes 2 - 3 seconds, I have seen it twice and almost done it my self, I am a bit OTT with safety.
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Daniel Lyall
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@daniel_lyall ok I'll make sure to keep the extinguisher close by! thanks for all the info
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