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Can you move a tool path in Fusion? NOT milling order "location"
I have some letters Im milling into some molds there pretty tricky because they are on a angled surface and would like them deeper so when my parts are cast the letters have more punch. Can I move a tool path in this case I would like to move in the X and Z by maybe .015 - .02, possible?
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If you're using the Engrave toolpath, there's not much you can do other than edit the Design to reflect this.
With other toolpaths, you could use a negative stock to leave, but that would apply to X/Y and Z. Could you share a snapshot of the area and toolpath in question?

Seth Madore
Customer Advocacy Manager - Manufacturing
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Either set the g54 off of stock instead of the part, or do a Linear pattern, .02 distance, disable "keep original"
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Im not using engrave, here is a screenshot as you can see it's milled pocket geometry and the surface its booleaned into is very steep.
Now here is another piece of the puzzle and 2nd question. In my prototype mold, I cut this with a 1/16 ball end mill but because the cutter has to go so deep there needed to be a lot of stick out on the tool and it's just not practical to machine 40 molds like this. To much room for error and the holder nut hits the side wall. I even bought a long-reach ER 11 and thought that was the ticket BUT it still hits one of the side walls.
SO IF i could find a nice ridged long shank tapered tool from say 3/16 shank to a 1/16 ball with very little DOC i think i would resolve all these issues with just having the right cutter. Ive looked at Harvey and Im trying not to spend 150.00 on a single cutter and get into extremely specialized tooling if I can help it. Im on a Tormach 1100M.
Can you offer any input on other tooling sources for what I describe? A 2-inch overall tool is what I need.
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linear pattern? How? can you pattern a tool path and wouldent your only option be to do this in design? I dont see anywhere in CAM to do this?
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Right click on the toolpath(s) and select "Add to New Pattern". However, this only gives you two axis of direction, but that would be enough to get you an X and a Z
What's the diameter on your ER11 nut? Would an A.B. extension work for you?

Seth Madore
Customer Advocacy Manager - Manufacturing
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I tried it, EXACTLY what I needed. I think this will work, but finding the right tool is the better option.
The diameter is about .75 "I think" dont have it here at work RN I will check, but yes if I had some type of holder that would reach and smaller diameter with a shanked-down tool that would be the ticket. I was not even sure what an AB Extension is. Is it like this?
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https://abtoolsinc.com/prod/accu-holds/accu-holds-inch/
I use the .125" and .187" options quite frequently. The .125" has an OD of .375, but it comes to a nice angled point:
I "think" you're going to be hard pressed to find a tool with the description you've given, and even if so, it's likely going to be around the cost of an Accu-Hold from AB Tools. It seems more advantageous (and cost effective) to use easily sourced tooling with an extension such as above

Seth Madore
Customer Advocacy Manager - Manufacturing
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Expensive but fricken awesome! I will definitely pick a couple of those up they will come in handy for many projects. Thank you for the info.
This is one of the router bits I was thinking of when explaining the tools in my head. Do think this would cut well since it's designed for wood? It's carbide and I only have maybe .03 or so material to remove, in 6061.
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Yes, they are expensive, I've got a bunch and it pains me to send the purchase order!
Yes, those tools should work okay in aluminum, just keep them lubricated.

Seth Madore
Customer Advocacy Manager - Manufacturing
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Thank you Seth! Can you grid carbide with a standard grinding wheel? or so you need a diamond wheel? I got one of these cutters and I might want to grind some clearance into the side since my part is angled the tool may end cutting into the mold more than I would like. I just want to put some relief into the side. Is this even possible?
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You would need a diamond wheel. They aren't terribly expensive, usually less than $100 (which can be pricey for a small shop, I admit). The upside is, that once you have a diamond wheel, you now have the ability to put flats on tools and use side-lock holders.

Seth Madore
Customer Advocacy Manager - Manufacturing
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Still searching for a solution for these letters. I did the final passes on them with the tapered end mill I posted about and I'm just not happy with it. I knew it would trim away the more of the material at the top edges but its more than I would like and it kind of obliterated the hole in the R. L and arrows look great but the R is a bust.
So Im wondering if you can mill aluminum with jeweler's burs if I take very light cuts. Would get one of the AB holders with them. They are made with vanadium steel, not sure if that is just a fancy marketing name or what but I assume it's just high-speed steel. ? The thing I like about the possibly is I have tons of them from my machining days back in the toy industry and they are all lollypop cutters, so I can capture more of the undercuts on the top edges of the letter which will give me a much better cavity for the letter. Do you think they will work?
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