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    <title>topic Re: Guitar Fretboard help in Fusion Design, Validate &amp; Document Forum</title>
    <link>https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-design-validate-document/guitar-fretboard-help/m-p/5796865#M287362</link>
    <description>&lt;P&gt;I can think of several ways to do it and I'll mention each of them. Attached are a couple pictures and the exported design file for the 1st one.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;1)&lt;/P&gt;&lt;UL&gt;&lt;LI&gt;&lt;SPAN style="line-height: 20px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp; I started a sketch on the YZ plane and drew a line 2mm below the Y axis (doesn't really matter where you do it though)&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;&lt;SPAN style="line-height: 20px;"&gt;I placed a point and put a lock constraint on it so it wouldn't move&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;&lt;SPAN style="line-height: 20px;"&gt;Then I put a center contraint on the line to that point. THis ensures it will stay centered as the dimension is changed.&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;&lt;SPAN style="line-height: 20px;"&gt;Then I put a sketch dimension on the line and set the width at 2.25" (typical width at the end of a steel string acoustic fretboard&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;&lt;SPAN style="line-height: 20px;"&gt;Next I drew two lines up 2mm to the zero Z axis (was just guestimating at how much of the sides is left after your radius the FB - I think it may actually be closer to 4mm though)&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;&lt;SPAN style="line-height: 20px;"&gt;Then I put a 3 point arc which spanned from those two vertical lines, and then just guestimated the 3rd point for the height.&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;Ideally, you would want to dimension this arc to something like 16" (Martin) or 12" (electric?), but Fusion 360 can't do that right now, and I have put in a request for this ability.&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;So what I do is find and online calculator for arcs, enter the parameters for the width and radius of the arc, and it will tell you the height of the cord. Then you draw a vertical line of that length, and snap the arc 3rd point to that line&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Note that with the sketch dimension on the width line, you can just edit that for different widths and model will adjust... BUT, then your curvature will be off.&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Then I created an offset construction plane and selected this sketch I had just made, and set -25.4" for the offset (typical Martin scale length). Now that I think of it, that's wrong, you just want to use the length of your FB which is of course much shorter than the actual scale length.&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;Then I started a new sketch on that offset plane and repeated the same technique, just with smaller dimension (width of 44mm/ 1 3/4", typical Martin width at the nut&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;once those two sketches were made, I zoomed WAY out, and did create-&amp;gt;loft, and selected both surfaces that are in the sketches.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;That created a fingerboard with a slight arch and that narrows from the soundhole end to the nut end.&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;/UL&gt;&lt;P&gt;Not exaclty sure if that makes it a compound radious - I need to study up on that.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Method 2:&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;UL&gt;&lt;LI&gt;draw a rectangle&amp;nbsp;that is the outline of the FB blank.&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;push/pull that up for about 6mm/1/4" to get the thickness&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;create a sketch on each end of the FB shape, and draw the radius arcs on those. Make sure they are tangent to the top plane of the FB blank.&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;using the faces created by those arcs on the ends, push/pull them along the length to remove the material.&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;now create a sketch on the bottom plane of that solid, and draw in the taper lines from the nut to the base.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;LI&gt;use push/pull to extrude the WASTE part of the trapezoid up and remove the material on the sides of the FB.&lt;/LI&gt;&lt;/UL&gt;&lt;P&gt;This is of course assuming you want the CNC machine to taper the FB for you too. You could I guess do all the other machining and then just taper it on a jig, but why have it do all for you? Then you could do some cool profiling on the upper frets as some builders do.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Hope this makes sense?&lt;/P&gt;</description>
    <pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2015 02:53:45 GMT</pubDate>
    <dc:creator>fritter63</dc:creator>
    <dc:date>2015-09-01T02:53:45Z</dc:date>
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