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scratch tool?

13 REPLIES 13
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Message 1 of 14
Anonymous
570 Views, 13 Replies

scratch tool?

I'm watching bunches of tutorials trying to get the hang of this mudbox thing. I come from a traditional sculpting background, that has some advantages and some dissadvantages. One dissadvantage I find is not being able to add clay as in traditional sculpting. I call them worms. Wish I could do this . Anyway.

Back to scratch tool.
I know it is not in the newer version. I watch some of the tutorials and see that the scratch tool seems to work nicely. I can not find a tool, even configuring one that works like the scratch tool did or appears to do in the older mudbox.

Thanks again for your kindness in helping this very new mudbox user

Bridgette
13 REPLIES 13
Message 2 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

Try these settings. Lets you and I go back and fourth a bit until we get the feel you need. The default brushes can be modified to do thousands of different things.

Knife brush preset is the new and improved Scratch tool.

Message 3 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

Funny, must be the sculptor in me, but I looked for that, found knife, and the knife stamp, even before your posts or reading it anywhere. My cuts just don't look the same as I'm seeing on the videos. It is frustrating, as I know once I have this tool it will be one of those that I could refer to as "my favorite" and if I were sitting at the scultping table would be weaved between my fingers.

I figure this must be settings. Are you getting these knife cuts in layer one? What fall off do you have? what are your advanc esettings and pen pressure? I'd like to compare these things. and thanks in advance.
Message 4 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

the Knife tool works great off the shelf with mb2009, and is my favorite tool like scratch before , there could be two reasons its not working properly

1 . insufficient subdivisions
2 . accidental alteration in settings

In the first case it takes level five to get smooth cuts without artifacts on the mb provided head , may be different for other models depending on poly density of the base mesh at that part.
in the second case as im not aware of a reset button you can go to my documents look for mudbox folder C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\My Documents\Mudbox\2009-x64\settings\ and delete the files settings.sav and ui.sav , now when u start mb again itll revert to original settings.
Also start to use "m" hot key to dynamically change brush strength and the "b" hotkey for size it makes getting the best settings a breeze, hope this helps..
Message 5 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

Here are some samples of the things happening with the scratch brush. Some times I can get it, more often I cannot. As a traditional sculptor this tool is very useful. Trying to use mudbox and not getting it to work each time, feel crippled without it.

The first photograph shows how going around a surface the scratch brush does not stay clean. This happens a lot. This is at level 5

The next pictures shows that I can get it to work, at least much better while working on a plane. I believe this one is at level 4 or 5

but working on a cube, same level, the scratch brush does not act the same.

It is the most temperamental tool, but one that I could really use.

Thanks for any assistance. It could be user error, as I am new, but I am getting a good feel for all of the other brushes, jsut have problems with this one.

thanks in advance,
bridgette

Sorry I think these photographs might post in reverse order

I guess I really need to know if this tool acts this way for everyone, or if it is my system and soemthing that I can do.

Message 6 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

Hi Bridgitte,

1. for the head 6 subdivisions will be enough, for the cube since it starts off with four faces vs the few thousand on the level 0 of the head
you need at least 8.

2. If geometry gets awkwardly spaced (long rectangle , or any shape not close to a quad)
while sculpting lower levels and using some brushes like bulge at large strength etc the higher levels at that point will not have enough resolution for the knife tool as that area is essentially low res compared to other areas.
Solution smooth your lower levels of the stretching polys and get them as close to geometry around them as in quad shaped and the artifacts will dissappear.

3. using heavy strength on lowres with some brushes will cause artifacting on highres , use a strength thats just right for the particular level, lower levels lower strength ( this is esp true of knife tool) . look at how the sharp lines in level 8 have softened in level 6 , if i dig into level six , the lines will not look clean in level 8, leave sharp stuff for highest levels.

in settings put the steady stroke on , i use the value 1, it makes the path smoother.

make sure you have wireframe turned on when troubleshooting polyspacing ( right click outside model in viewport and toggle wireframe on)

img 1 how it should be at level 8

img 2 artifact caused at level 6 will not be strong at level 8 but it wont be very good either.

img 3 at lower level 3 the poly is too far stretched compared to surrounding polys leading to the artifact on higher levels.

Message 7 of 14
Jhonus
in reply to: Anonymous

thomasphoenix is right, but to be more general - it seems the main problem is your knowledge of how the 3d surface is working. i think you will quickly learn if you turn off Smooth Shade and turn on Wireframe while you work.
Message 8 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

Learn about polygon flow and some basic subdivision surface / modelling theory and you should see why this is happening.

Wayne...
Message 9 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

Thank you for all of your help. This is a great learning experience and I appreciate your patients with a beginner. As I said I am coming from this from the aspect of a traditional master sculptor trying to work with mudbox to present it to the traditional sculpting world. Great things are happening to help us in our studios, and I hope this is another tool to use. I , myself and forced to learn this digital world to extend the life of my traditional sculpting. Traditional sculpting is hard on the wrists and hands and without apprentices I could not do what I do. With that said, and those ramblings a few more questions.


As I understand it some of my problems are because of the displaced mesh or wire frame caused by pushing or pulling on the form. There seems to be limits of this, and as compared to traditional scupture you can't really "add" clay and keep a mesh. Seems like if I could meld a sphere to a plane to a tube it would work better to create- say an elephant than to strech, blulgeor foam a section to make ears and trunk. Do I understand this? I also hate to write about this process and state that an artist would need to create the form in another program and then bring it in.

also, added to this. IS there a place to get more forms to start off with so that I can have a good mesh?

Also it appears that in the other tutorials one would sudivide an area, but accoring to posts this is not possible anymore in the new mudbox.

while you are answering these questions I'll be working out many more.

Bridgette
http://www.creativesculpture.com
Message 10 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

you are right , it would not be possible to use a sphere and try grow a trunk out of that you will need a mesh created which already has it.
And you are again right you need to model a simple base mesh and pose it if required before bringing it into mudbox.
there are some standard non posed base meshes in mb forums , search for them. but to really do what you want as a sculptor you need to
make the basemesh yourself. xsi foundation if still around is a good buy for base meshes and rigging posing. silo is a good standalone poly modeling app,

A good number of us in mb forum come from a traditional art /sculpture background but have gone digital a long time ago , I do too... and mb is sculpting app of choice as it comes closest to having that level of control over your sculpt , other sculpting apps require a very strict, repetitive & unforgiving workflow to acheive what you can just straight away do with mb.

http://thomasphoenix.cgsociety.org/gallery/

http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a74/thomasphoenix/
Message 11 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

IN the same way to get the best out of trad scullting you have to be able to make your own amatures, in digital sculpting you need to learn to make your own base meshes. Yes you can get some intersting stuff from very simple shapes, but for complex model you need a base mesh to work from...thats something we all have to spend time learning if we want to be taken seriously... I'd recommend taking a while to learn poly modelling well (there are plenty of free tutorials on line), it seems there are some fundementals your missing at the moment. Digital sculpting is a totally different skill although it has much in common with it, there are many skills you need to learn especially for it.

Wayne...
Message 12 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous




As I understand it some of my problems are because of the displaced mesh or wire frame caused by pushing or pulling on the form. There seems to be limits of this, and as compared to traditional scupture you can't really "add" clay and keep a mesh. Seems like if I could meld a sphere to a plane to a tube it would work better to create- say an elephant than to strech, blulgeor foam a section to make ears and trunk. Do I understand this? I also hate to write about this process and state that an artist would need to create the form in another program and then bring it in.



It is surprising what you can sculpt out of a sphere or cube in quite a short amount of time though. This little guy started as a sphere and is only around a million polys, so you could do a lot more with 40-50 million polys in mudbox2009.
The only thing you have to remember is that you can't put a hole in the mesh, but any solid object is doable, which means almost any creature or head could be created from a sphere. It's certainly more difficult to work this way though and you have to think a lot about where you're going to pull the polys from to get the shapes you want. Starting with a basic mesh such as the head or body that come with the program makes things go more smoothly and predictably.
However, it is a lot of fun to just start with a sphere and just see where it goes, like I did with this guy.

Message 13 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

Wayne, You stated
"Learn about polygon flow and some basic subdivision surface / modelling theory and you should see why this is happening."

Do you have any resources on this?

Need to be able to understand it enough to write about what I am learning.
Message 14 of 14
Anonymous
in reply to: Anonymous

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